After four years of motorcycle touring in Pakistan, my wife and I embarked on our most challenging adventure yet.
Some rough stats
Total riding days: 16
Total distance covered: 2000 KM
Bike: Yamaha YB 125z
Model: 2019
Approximate luggage: 60 KG
Route: Timergarah > Kumrat > Badgoi Top > Biar > Chitral > Mastuj > Shandur Top > Phander > Gupis > Darkut > Gilgit > Nalter > Hunza > Babusar Top > Burwai > Abbottabad > Khanpur Dam
We went from Karachi on a bus till Timergarah (Lower Dir), and took our bike along in cargo. From Timergarah we started riding to explore some of Pakistan’s most stunning and difficult terrains.
Day 1: Setting Off – Timergarah to Kumrat Valley
We left Timergarah and rode into the Kumrat Valley. After a long day of riding, we found ourselves encircled by Kumrat forest, where we spent the night surrounded by towering trees and the soothing sounds of nature. The next day promised even more adventure as we planned to venture deeper into the valley.
Day 2: Conquering the Off-Road Challenge – Kumrat Valley to Do Janga Meadows
The following morning, we embarked on an off-road journey that was as difficult as it was beautiful. The path was challenging, with rugged terrain that tested our riding skills and endurance. But as we navigated through the dense pine forests, with the blue Panjkora River flowing beside us, every moment felt surreal. We met a few high-spirited fellow bikers on the way that would motivate us further. We finally reached the end of the path at Do Janga meadows, a remote and tranquil spot where we could reconnect with nature and recharge our spirits. We then returned to our hotel, picked our stuff and went to stay in Thal village.
Day 3: Ascending to Badgoi Top – A View from 11,500 Feet
The next day as we ascended to Badgoi Top, a mountain pass that connects Dir with Utror at an altitude of 11,500 feet. The lush green meadows, combined with a light drizzle and the occasional hail, made the landscape look like a slice of paradise. After soaking in the breathtaking views, we descended to the village of Biar, where we were welcomed with open arms by an acquainted Kohistani family. Their hospitality was heartwarming, and it was a joy to experience the rich culture and warmth of the local community.
Days 4-5: Endurance on the Road – Biar to Chitral and Mastuj
The next couple of days were all about long rides. From Biar, we made our way to Chitral city, and the following day, we continued to Mastuj. The weather in these regions was hot and dry, and the road conditions were far from ideal. But despite the challenges, the changing landscapes kept our spirits high. As we rode from the arid plains of Chitral to the greener surroundings of Mastuj, it was clear that this journey was as much about the experience as it was about the destination.
Day 6: Reaching Phander through Shandur Top
Leaving Mastuj, we headed towards the famed Shandur Top, often referred to as the “Roof of the World” that also hosts the annual Shandur Polo Festival at an altitude of over 12,000 feet. The landscape transformed into a lush green paradise. The sight of the expansive Shandur Lake, sparkling in the sunlight, with yaks and cows grazing nearby, was simply mesmerizing. We stopped to drink from one of the glacial streams—without a doubt, the coldest and most refreshing water I’ve ever tasted. It was a moment of pure bliss, and any exhaustion from the journey simply melted away. We finally rode all the way till Phander Valley.
After a day of riding through the breathtaking scenery of Ghizer district, we finally reached Phander Valley. Usually, we carry camping gear, but knowing how difficult this ride would be, we decided to travel light. We found a luxurious campsite by the Phander River and instantly we decided to make it our place to stay the night. The tranquility of the valley, combined with the gentle sound of the river, made for a perfect night’s rest.
Day 7: Phander to Gupis
We initially planned to go from Phander till Yasin Valley, however our effort on the way to find the Terrace of Phander Valley delayed the journey quite a bit. The journey was quite mesmerizing itself, especially the part along the Khalti Lake. It was late afternoon when we finally reached Gupis and we were a lot hungry as well. Unfortunately, the market in Gupis was closed that day and it took us a while to search a decent place to have lunch. It was evening already when we got done with our lunch and decide to stay in Gupis rather than ride for 1.5 hours more to reach Yasin Valley. We found a newly constructed family-run hotel built inside the family’s orchard that was an ideal place for us to stay the night.
Day 8: Exploring Yasin Valley and the Enchanting Darkut Village
The next morning, we set out for Yasin Valley. Locals recommended that we visit the Burosho Museum, a private collection by a retired army officer preserving the history and culture of the region. It was a deeply enriching experience that offered a glimpse into the traditional life of the people in this remote part of Pakistan. Afterward, we ventured to Darkut, the last village before the Wakhan Corridor. What we found there was nothing short of magical—a vast glacier feeding into a crystal-clear lake, surrounded by towering peaks. It felt like we were standing on the edge of the world. We then returned to Gupis and stayed in the same hotel.
Day 9 – 10: Mechanical Setbacks and Resilience – Naltar Valley and the Broken Carrier
Our journey then took us to Gilgit city where we stayed the night and onwards to Naltar Valley the very next morning. The road to Naltar was newly constructed, offering a smooth ascent to the valley. However, the real challenge awaited us on the narrow, rocky path leading to Naltar Lakes. After two hours of grueling off-road riding, we reached the Satrangi Lake, only to find it wasn’t quite what we had expected. Disappointed but not deterred, we continued to the Blue Lake, which was indeed a sight to behold. But as fate would have it, heavy rain began to fall just as I prepared to take a dip, and the path became even more difficult. To add to the challenge, the constant jolts had broken my motorcycle’s carrier. We managed to find a local welder in Nomal who skillfully repaired the damage, allowing us to continue our journey.
Day 10-11: Changing Plans – Skipping Astore and Finding Solace in Passu
Initially, we had planned to visit Astore Valley after Naltar, but the exhaustion from the previous days led us to reconsider. After consulting with friends, we decided to head to Passu in Upper Hunza instead, where we could rest and recharge. At Passu we stayed at a familiar home-stay. We treated ourselves to Yak meat at Yak Grill and spent our nights stargazing and enjoying the famous apricot cake at Glacier Breeze Cafe. The clear, moonless night allowed us to witness a sky full of stars, including the Milky Way—an unforgettable sight.
Day 12: A Chance Encounter and a Breakfast to Remember – Passu to Thalichi
One morning, I received a call from my finance professor from the Institute of Business Administration. He was also in Hunza and had seen my stories on social media. He invited us to join him for breakfast at Serena Hotel in Karimabad. We left early, picking fresh wild lavender and apricot cake as gifts. It was a delightful reunion, filled with great food and inspiring conversation. As we began our descent from the mountains, we faced extreme heat in the lower regions. We made an impromptu stop at Thalichi, directly across from the Nanga Parbat View Point. The evening winds brought relief, and we spent the night gazing at the mighty Nanga Parbat.
Day 13: Reaching Burwai through Babusar Top
The next morning, we set out early to cross Babusar Top, aiming to beat the usual tourist traffic. The ascent was steep, but we reached the top with plenty of time to enjoy the panoramic views. After a peaceful hike and a cup of tea, we descended into the lush greenery of Kaghan Valley, where the pristine Lulusar Lake awaited us. We spent some time by the lake before continuing to Burwai, where we checked into a hotel for a well-deserved rest.
Day 14 – 15: Winding Down to Abbottabad
The final day of our journey saw us making our way through picturesque locations in Kaghan Valley, eventually reaching Abbottabad where we stayed for two days.
Day 16: The Last Leg
The last part of our journey took us to Khanpur Dam, where we were greeted by a beautiful sunset—a fitting end to an incredible journey.
This motorcycle tour across Pakistan was more than just an adventure; it was a journey of discovery, resilience, and profound learning. Every challenge we faced on the road reinforced the importance of preparation, adaptability, and embracing the unexpected. From the warmth of the people we met to the awe-inspiring landscapes we traversed, this experience will stay with me forever.
